Review: Eating Out 16 November, 2007
Game, glorious game: how I long for autumn, now finally, tardily here, to re-discover its unique pleasures. I’m not alone, game increasingly finding favour on many a restaurant menu, the choice broad and exciting, a real carnivore’s time of year. Partridge, pheasant, quail, venison, wild boar, wild rabbit (not that bland Chinese stuff) and hare are just some alternatives. Elk, popular on the US West Coast, has yet to travel here but, why not? Two very British kinds – partridge and venison - are to be found on the Earl of March pub menu in Lavant, near Chichester.
Not only does this pub celebrate the deer and semi-wild bird but it also offers more seasonal, rib-sticking dishes like terrine of wild game, mushroom soup and lamb shank. Recently taken over by Ritz executive head chef Giles Thompson, it doesn’t resemble the village pub it once was, much to the dismay of bar proppers with their pints. Or, no loss say others, past food offerings less than acceptable to discerning palates.
Sleek, modern, flagstone, wood, stylish tables and high-backed brown chairs (they have corned the market) and sumptuous flower design point you to, well, if not a smart hotel like the Ritz, you’re in its country cousin. Make no mistake either: you’re Goodwood territory. Yup, it’s not called the Earl of March for nothing, the racecourse just over the hill as is Goodwood House. This is smartsville, the menu and décor tuning in on a well-heeled clientele – with somewhat deep pockets.
Diver scallops with minted pea puree, pancetta and truffle oil and oak smoked salmon with potato blinis and dill crème fraiche come in at just under the £8 mark, a tartlet of vine tomatoes, black olives and pesto or crab and ginger bisque with Parmesan ciabatta around £6. Partridge with dauphinoise potatoes and venison partnered with kale, herbed mash and red wine jus are priced at £15.95 while sea bream with creamed leeks and crispy bacon or halibut with a chive and garlic hash with a red wine jus are agreeably at £13.50. I give Giles full marks for not overloading the bill with extras, seasonal vegetables included.
A lunch bar menu offers a less pricy deal with grilled mackerel with brown bread and butter, ham egg and chips plus filled panini, ciabatta and salads, another fine move.
Of course I had game, the venison a stunning, top-notch dish that wouldn’t look out of place in a fine London brasserie, Piccadilly’s Wolseley springing to mind. What else did I expect? The man’s from the Ritz and ritzy it was, the herby mash topped with red cabbage topped with beautifully cooked curly kale topped with four glorious slabs of venison loin cooked to pink perfection. More autumnal notes in the shape of medium-diced beetroot, carrot and swede with a sprig or two of thyme on a shiny red wine jus finished off the dish admirably. And hurray for a chef who gives a decent amount of sauce rather than a sub-Saharan wadi mirage, sauce-lovers gasping for more.
The Earl of March has the food mostly down pat – I would race back for the venison – staffing of the huddled-around-the-bar-till kind needing a bit of a shakeup, the kitchen equally bashful on presenting dishes in time, my wait for a main course over half an hour with nary a roll to help pass the time. Will this newcomer to Sussex hit the heights. Of course it will. Summer months will see it packed. And winter? Head this way, game lovers.
The Earl of March, Lavant Road, Lavant, Chichester 01243 533993. Open 12 – 2.30 pm and 6- 9.30 pm for food orders all week except Sundays (12 – 4 pm).
- Food: ****
- Service: ***
- Atmosphere: ****
- Disabled access: yes
Diners’ view:
Mary-Ellen and George Cutler, from Chichester:
"This is a welcome addition to the Royal Oak in this area which is always so packed, the food equal if not better, my partridge just wonderful" Mary-Ellen said. "My compliments to the chef for the superb scallops and calves’ liver."
